British Virgin Islands
This is Road Town, capital of the BVI and my third British territory in a row. “Road Town” may seem an unimaginative name for a town since all towns have roads. The name derives from the nautical term “the roads,” a place less sheltered than a harbor but in which ships may lie at anchor. (Thanks to David Fairman for this bit of etymology.)
Road Town has a spectacular harbor, famous for being a place where British ships re-provisioned. With the gradual post-Covid recovery of travel and tourism, Road Town’s harbor is busy with boats once again.
With warm water, steady trade winds, safe anchorages, and more than 50 islands to explore , the BVI is an ideal place to sail. The BVI describes itself as the yachting capital of the world. It’s certainly one of the best places in the Caribbean to organize a bare boat charter. I timed my visit to the BVI for the annual Spring Regatta, hoping to find a position as a deckhand on a yacht sailing south through the Leeward Islands. Although the yachtsmen I chatted with were friendly and had good stories to tell, they all had full crews.
Sailboats aren’t the only boats in Road Town harbor these days. Last Tuesday, three cruise ships brought ashore as many passengers as there are residents of Road Town — 15,000. Since Road Town’s wharf can only accommodate two cruise ships, the third ship was tethered offshore. As in other Caribbean ports, the locals are ambivalent about cruise ships. Cruise ships provide all-inclusive services, including their own guided tours at each port-of-call. Consequently, few cruise ship passengers interact with locals or spend money at local businesses.
Boatless, I rented a car to explore Tortola. It’s a stunning island with a lot of untouched natural areas.
Entering the BVI, I encountered strict enforcement of current Covid restrictions. All the passengers on my plane had their temperatures checked, their vaccination records confirmed and their negative antigen tests verified. Only then were we sent to immigration and customs. Although every shop on the island required masks be worn, open air restaurants and yachting parties didn’t.
I made the most of my three days in the BVI. Although tempted to spend more time in this lovely place, I have to keep moving. Next stop is Sint Maarten.
Hey there Nick,
Great to see you passed through my old stomping grounds. I looked on line to see if I had any contacts for you, but it seems time and hurricanes have moved all things along. Here are a few references to the origin of the name, Road Town.
Much love. Joy on your travels.
David
“Road Town, chief town and port of Tortola Island. The name derives from the nautical term “the roads,” a place less sheltered than a harbour but in which ships may lie at anchor.”
“A roadstead can be an area of safe anchorage for ships waiting to enter a port, or to form a convoy. If sufficiently sheltered and convenient, it can be used for the transshipment of goods, stores, and/or troops; or, for the transfer of same to and from shore by lighters.[3][b] In the days of sailing ships, some voyages could only easily be made with a change in wind direction, and ships would wait for a change of wind in a safe anchorage, such as the Downs or Yarmouth Roads.”
Well, well, well, I’m delighted to learn how Road Town got its name. Thank you very much, David.
Hi-ya!
Also: Rode – anchor line or chain. 🙂
Hello Nick – Tortola and places like the Bitter End Yacht Club have been fun destinations – as are the other great islands in the BVI – indeed the sailing Mecca in our part of the world! Great photos as well – Safe travels – Bill Hargreaves